The Japanese Auction Sheet: Your X-Ray Into a JDM Car's True Condition

An auction sheet is a standardized inspection report created by a **neutral, third-party inspector** employed by the auction house — not the seller. That independence is the whole point. The inspector has no financial stake in whether the car sells high or low, so they document exactly what they see.

**Every auction sheet contains:** - An **overall grade** (a number from 1 to 6, or R/RA for repaired vehicles) - **Interior and exterior grades** (letters A through D) - A **car map diagram** with coded symbols marking every dent, scratch, and repair - The verified **odometer reading** in kilometers - Chassis/model code, year, transmission, displacement, and color - Equipment checkboxes (A/C, power windows, sunroof, aero, etc.) - **Handwritten inspector comments** in Japanese (often the most valuable part)

Because the format is standardized across the major auction houses, once you learn to read one, you can read them all. This is the document we scrutinize on your behalf before ever placing a bid.

The headline number on any auction sheet is the **overall grade.** Here's what each one means:

| Grade | Meaning | |-------|---------| | **6** | Essentially new, near-delivery condition, minimal km | | **5** | Excellent — very light wear, well maintained | | **4.5** | Very good — minor cosmetic imperfections only | | **4** | Good — the honest, high-value sweet spot for most buyers | | **3.5** | Average — noticeable wear, small repairs may be needed | | **3** | Below average — visible flaws, higher mileage typical | | **2** | Poor — significant wear or damage | | **1** | Very poor — heavily modified, flood, or major issues | | **R / RA** | Repaired history — has had accident/structural repair | | **S** | Brand new car |

**My honest take:** Grade **4** and **4.5** cars are the backbone of smart JDM importing. They're clean, mechanically sound vehicles without the price premium of a grade 5 or 6. A grade 3.5 can be a fantastic value if the damage map and inspector notes check out. Anything at grade R isn't automatically bad — but it demands extra scrutiny, and I'll always flag it clearly for you.

Beyond the overall number, the sheet breaks the car down further:

**Interior grade (letters A-D):** - **A** — Excellent, near spotless - **B** — Good, light normal wear - **C** — Average, visible wear, possible stains or cigarette use - **D** — Poor, heavy wear or damage

**The car map** is the diagram of the vehicle (viewed from above and the sides) covered in letter-and-number codes. This is where the inspector pinpoints the exact location and severity of every flaw. Common symbols include:

| Symbol | Meaning | |--------|---------| | **A** | Scratch — number after shows severity 1-3 | | **U** | Dent — U1 tiny, U3 significant | | **W** | Wave / repair mark (repainted or bodywork done) | | **S** | Rust | | **C** | Corrosion | | **X** | Part needs replacement | | **XX** | Part already replaced | | **B** | Dent with scratch | | **G** | Stone chip / crack in glass |

A number next to the letter grades the severity (1 = minor, 3 = major). So "A2" on the rear door means a moderate scratch on the rear door. We translate this entire map for you so you know precisely what to expect before the car ever ships.

If the grade is the headline, the **handwritten Japanese comments** are the full article. This section is where inspectors note things that don't fit neatly into a grade or symbol — and it's where experience really pays off.

Inspectors will note things like: - Repair history / previous accident repair (shuufukureki) - Aftermarket modifications (exhaust, suspension, wheels, turbo) - Warning lights currently illuminated - Oil leaks or engine noise - Timing belt replacement records - Non-original paint panels - Whether the car has a full service book

**This is exactly why you want an importer who reads Japanese auction sheets fluently.** A machine translation might miss the nuance between "minor oil seepage" and "active oil leak" — and that difference could cost you thousands. When we evaluate a sheet for you, we read every comment and tell you the real story in plain English.

Here's our real process, step by step, for every vehicle a client asks us to source:

**1. Grade filter first.** We screen for vehicles in the grade range that matches your budget and expectations — usually 3.5 and up for daily drivers, higher for collector-grade cars.

**2. Decode the car map.** We map every symbol so you know exactly where the scratches, dents, and any repairs are before you commit.

**3. Read every comment.** We translate the inspector's handwritten notes — this is where we catch red flags like undisclosed accident history, active leaks, or heavy modification.

**4. Cross-check the odometer.** The verified km reading on the sheet is one more layer of protection against odometer fraud, since it's recorded independently at auction.

**5. Photos + sheet together.** We line up the auction photos against the sheet's damage map to confirm the story matches.

**6. Honest recommendation.** We tell you whether the car is worth bidding on and what a fair maximum bid is. If a sheet has warning signs, we walk away — and we tell you why.

This is the difference between gambling on a car and making an informed purchase. The auction sheet turns a leap of faith into a calculated decision.

Even a decent-looking grade can hide problems. Here are the warning signs I always check for:

**Grade R or RA without explanation.** Repaired vehicles can be perfectly fine, but you need to know what was repaired and how well. A structural repair is very different from a replaced bumper.

**Lots of W marks clustered in one area.** Multiple wave/repair marks on adjacent panels often indicate past accident damage that was bodied out — even if the overall grade doesn't say "R."

**Repair history noted in the comments.** It should always be disclosed and factored into the price.

**Rust and corrosion codes (S, C) on structural areas.** Surface rust on a 25-year-old car is normal. Structural rust is a dealbreaker.

**Warning lights noted but downplayed.** An illuminated check-engine or airbag light noted on the sheet needs investigation before purchase.

**A grade that doesn't match the photos.** If the sheet says grade 4 but the photos show obvious damage, something is off. We always reconcile the two.

When any of these appear, we don't hide them from you — we explain exactly what they mean for the car's value and reliability.